ReadyMade: Instructions for everyday life

CONSTRUCTION

1. Assemble the top and bottom beams, which will rest between the steel angles. Glue and screw together two sets of 18”-long 2” x 4“s. Attach four 1½” angle brackets (two on each side) to the bottom beam (flush with the top edge and inset a couple inches from the ends).

2. To make the floating platen (the piece of wood that presses down onto the plate), center and glue the 12” x 12” plywood piece onto one of the 15” x 15” pieces. Further secure them together by attaching four 1 ¾” angle brackets (facing out) in the corners of the 12” piece. The brackets should be set in about ¼” from the outside edges of the wood.

3. For the base, attach the two 15” 2” x 4“s flush with the outside edge of the second 15” x 15” plywood piece using angle brackets. Center the bottom beam underneath the base so it protrudes an equal distance (about 1 ½”) from both sides. Secure the beam temporarily to the base with a few screws through the angle brackets you attached in Step 1.

4. Set the base on its feet and hold two slotted steel angles in place on one end of the protruding bottom beam. The angles should be facing out, their corners flush with the end of the beam. Mark holes for two threaded rods, which will secure the steel angles to the bottom beam. Unscrew the bottom beam from the base and, using a drill press (or power drill) with a “ bit, drill the holes for the rods. Repeat this process with the remaining steel angles on the other end of the bottom beam.

5. Reattach the beam to the base and secure the steel angles with the rods, washers, and wing nuts.

6. Place the top beam between the four slotted steel angles and mark holes for the four threaded rods, using a level to make sure the beam is properly aligned. Drill where marked.

7. Attach the fence anchor to the bottom center of the top beam.

8. On the Plexiglas, use a permanent marker to create a grid of 1” squares as well as two diagonal lines from opposite corners (to help determine plate placement when printing).

   
   ASSEMBLY

9. We’ve recommended using 24” slotted steel angles because they’re readily available in that length. For printing purposes, they are actually a bit too long, so secure your top beam 3” to 4” down from the top of the angles.

10. Place your platen on the base of the press. Attach the ends of your bungee cords to one side of the platen through the angle brackets, bring them over the top beam, and attach the other ends to the opposite angle brackets. Depending on the brackets, it may be necessary to drill a hole in the center of each one to accommodate the hook from the bungee cord.

11. Center your bottle jack on top of the platen with the top of the jack pressed against the middle of the fence post anchor. When printing, the bungee cords help retract the jack, while the fence post anchor prevents the top of the jack from digging into the top beam.

12. To keep the platen on target when you’re cranking it down, it is helpful to insert two guide screws on each side of the platen, which keep it from swinging around between the upright posts.

13. Get carded!

    
    HOW TO GET STARTED
    For letterpress projects, begin by ordering plastic-backed deep-relief photopolymer plates and ink from the folks at boxcarpress.com. More on that, plus step-by-step instructions for printing your own custom cards await you at readymademag.com/letterpress. This press is much better suited to line-art images like the pinecones and boughs pictured here. For larger or trickier projects, contact a fine letterpress printer, such as Norman Clayton of Classic Letterpress (510-579-0777). To learn more about the wonderful world of printing, check out these two invaluable resources: Briar Press (briarpress.org) and the San Francisco Center for the Book (sfcb.org).